I've got no real need for power steering at this point with my e30, plus, the system leaks nicely.

I am interested in deleting the power steering pump, reservoir, lines, and belt. I have heard this modification is excellent for tracked cars and gives a much better turn-in and feel/connection to the road surface.

I would need to repair my leaky seals and seal of the rest of the system.

Has anyone done this with success?

I have also been considering upgrading to an e36 (M3?) rack. Mine is a NON-AIRBAG car.

Below is the response I received from Mike Miller (Roundel Tech Talk) - looks like I'll be capping it off!

This is no big deal. See, most BMW technicians have no experience with this sort of thing -- only track junkies, race teams, and inveterate cheapskates want to delete E30 power steering. In terms of the first two, it makes good sense on the track because you can eliminate one possible operating fluid leak, some underhood clutter, about 10 pounds of useless (on the track) weight, and free up a small amount of parasitic power that previously went to spinning the power steering pump (a very small amount). As for the inveterate cheapskates, trust me -- you can't tell them anything anyway. However this is one case where the cheapskates aren't shooting themselves in the foot.

All you need to do is remove all the power steering parts. Once the hydraulic lines are disconnected you can work the steering back and forth lock-to-lock to expel the old ATF from the rack. Or you can plug the rack -- the little plastic plugs that come in new racks work fine, with a bit of silicone sealer. You have to clean the threaded apertures for the sealer to bite, though.

The power steering rack is lubricated internally, separate from the power steering fluid hydraulic assist mechanism. Eliminating the power steering system WILL NOT cause the power steering rack to wear out any faster than it would normally.

Nevertheless I think it's important to recognize that your rack is probably pretty worn at 200,000 miles. Wear is indicated by on-center play. There is no doubt that the clean way to do this job is to install the E30 manual steering rack. It's not hard to get -- it's just hard to get cheaply. The only source is BMW, part number 32 11 1 130 169. There may not be a core charge nowadays, since the cars are so mature. Last time I did it there was a core charge and BMW would not accept a power steering rack so I had to pay the charge.

Best regards,

Mike Miller
BMW CCA Roundel Magazine Technical Editor

Alex,

I do not run power steering on my e30 M3 and have no ill effects. Our new e30 318i also has the power steering disabled as described above.

Damon

No issues passing inspection when they were street legal (if it was disconnected when it was still street legal)?

I was talking with a fellow club member today who mentioned you may fail if you have it installed and not connected. I didn't necessarily agree, arguing that most shops probably don't even look that close...esp. a neighborhood gas station that does inspections.

The first POS-318i had the PS delete mod courtesy of Sam Smith and a pair of wire cutters to snip the belt. It was great on track and just a little extra tug on the wheel during parking/slow speed maneuvers. Just do it!

I like Bud's suggestion. Just remove the belt and see how you like it. If you like the feeling, then ditch the unneeded equipment.

And about the E36 rack: I actually upgraded my M3 rack to the faster, more direct Z3 rack. It's a direct fit in my car, so I'd imagine the exact same challenges associated with the E30 - E36 swap apply.

Really, even without trying it, I bet it's worth the extra steering effort. And, you all have seen my Herculean arms, so you know it will be np for this guy!

Seriously, it may be a bear, esp. with my tiny steering wheel, but I will deal.

I also really can't wait to get rid of the puddles of p/s fluid on my garage floor and the seeping reservoir.

Dave, what e30-e36 rack-swap "challenges" do you speak of?

You need to modify the coupling that goes between the rack and the steering column along with one one of the hoses. I think people also add spacers to the rack to limit how much they can turn, otherwise you'll get rubbing a full lock.

Check out Zionsville for the pieces, or make them yourself.
http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/stor ... y_Code=CKS

I am running the E36 without powersteering as done above. I had to make a set of spacers to go between the mounting tabs basicly I did bolt- nut-tab-nut so now it has 2 nuts on the one bolt. as for the steering coulper I had no issues in having the locking bolt line up on the spline shaft. When the time comes let me know and I can give you a hand. It does help a lot if you raise the motor off the mounts to access the mounting rack.

You can remove the hoses from the rack, weld the holes in the steering rack banjo bolts shut, screw the welded banjo bolts back in, and consider it sealed. You could use short metric bolts instead, but the threads are large and fine (something like M12x1.0 and M14x1.0) so are hard to find, and aren't hollow so are heavier than the banjo bolts anyway.

imho the e36M3 rack is great for autox but not sure I'd really want 25% more force on a roadcourse or street.

Any power steering requirement is definitely not in the Missouri safety inspection, only steering binding or play. Emergency brakes aren't either.

Btw here's the full Mo inspection requirement doc - http://sos.mo.gov/adrules/csr/current/11csr/11c50-2.pdf
If you get dinged for anything not in this doc you can call the state chief inspector's office in Jeff City, he'll gladly call your station and straighten it out asap (yes I've been there).

There are two types of e30 racks--steel tube capped and and cast aluminum, and they are interchangeable. as I recall the aluminum one is a few pounds lighter.

You can really tell just how sticky your tires are with the belt removed.

dang, just realized I'm 6 months too late. so what's the verdict--are you unassisted?

I've driven Pete's car, I loved the steering, easy as pie compared to my SX with the delete.

Yup. In October, I got a Z3 2.8 rack (2.7 turns lock-to-lock) and installed it with my drivetrain. Found a good little write-up (with great pics and part #s to purchase) online about this project and it was pretty easy. Only issue was that the steering U-joint rubbed and we just ground it down in a few spots. We filled it with grease, then rigged it to be considerd "plugged-up"

Plugged it up for real in about May after running all over looking for solid metal bolts/threaded plugs that would mimic the hollow banjo bolts. Works great now. Was wonderful at the track, too!

Member "silence" on e30tech.com makes steering delete blocks for the e30 and e36 racks. Just installed mine and it's a very clean, no jerry-rigging involved, kind of set-up.
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread ... ost1177498

It allows the fluid to flow as the rack was designed.

Mike the bimmer tech may seem to think that the "internal lubrication" of the rack is fine, but I've asked plenty of other mechanics who disagree on the logic. Spend the 20 some odd dollars on this delete block, allow the rack to work as designed, and sleep soundly knowing that you won't get your rack to lock up someday.

Not sure why lifting the motor is necessary to do this job unless your arms are too short or your belly too big.... once the powersteering unit was unhooked in about 30 min., it took literally 10 min. to undo the banjos and, put the block in and re-install the banjo bolt.